Kashmir valley has an age-old tradition of baking the most phenomenal breads which is a part of our culture. The morning tea – nun chai or Kahwa – has to be accompanied with a Tchot (Kashmiri name for the morning medium sized round bread). Irrespective of the weather conditions, political instability, floods, curfews this ritual does not stop. During an early morning walk in any colony one person from each family can be seen with a bag full of freshly baked breads (tchochi) going home from a kandaerwan (Baker’s outlet). The types of breads made in these bakeries can make your mouth water. Bread for breakfast is different from breads had during the day and the evenings. Then there are special breads for different festivities.
The bakers are specially trained persons who master their art as a family tradition or from an ustad under whom they had worked for years. While the public is sleeping the Kandur is working in the early hours of the morning. The family gets up around 2 am in all seasons to do the job in a sequence, and afresh. It entails making the dough from refined wheat . Each member of the family contributes to a different task. Women generally make the dough with Ingredients like ghee, salt, milk, a bit of yeast to allow just right amount of fermentation and men work at the tandoor. The well kneaded balls are then kept ready for tandoor. The Kandur looks after the tandoor and the baking process . The customers start coming after 5.30 to 6.30 am depending upon the season.
Similar bakers are found in north west frontier part of Pakistan, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Afghanistan and Iran. The term tandoor is derived from the Persian word “tanur” meaning oven. It is believed by historians that this trade prospered in Kashmir during the rule of Sultan Zain ul Abdeen (Budshah) during the 1400’s.
Kandur’s have their distinct identity and have often surnames like Sofi. They usually marry in families of these castes only. Sofi’s especially are well known for folk song singing in their spare time. During the colder months and winters Kandaerwan becomes a cosy small chamber where people gossip and discuss anything from cricket to politics to new movies and in the past the hartal calls etc. This they do while waiting for their share of baked breads to get ready.
Variety of breads available with Kandur:
Tchot : This is a must at breakfast time. Traditional Kashmiri homes do not have breakfast tables, it is therefore had in the kitchen or in the hamam during winters. It is also called Girda and is made from refined flour, kneaded with milk and salt. The top of it is made of dented patterns from his fingertips. It is baked till the crust turns golden. Tea is a must with it (usually salted tea “Nun Chai”and on some days in winter with Harisa (a traditional dish of pounded meat with gentle spices).
Two popular rural breads are “makai chot” made of corn flour and “tomla tchot” made of rice flour. There is also “Aab tchot/ chhira Chot”, something like a South Indian dosa made of rice flour.
Lavaasa: Another everyday bread which has a resemblance to the North Indian or an Afghani Naan. The softer version is consumed as a wrap meat or chickpeas.
Bakerkhani: It is baked in layers prepared by coating layers in ghee and is braked crisp. It is a tradition to send large trays of bakerkhanis to in laws of the daughter on occasions of child birth and engagements.
Tcothiwor / Telwor: It is the local version of a bagel, baked hard with a hole in the middle and sprinkled with sesame seed. It is served as a late afternoon snack. Some people like to dunk it in a cup of nun chai and then have the soaked and softened bread with a spoon.
Kulchas: It is a very popular bread. It is hard and dry and can be preserved for a few days. It has 2 versions. With salt or a sweet variety with ghee and sugar.
The sugar variety is often wider and called “Khatai” or takhetaich”. It tastes the best with kehwa.
Sheermal: Traditionally from Pampore and famous for its unique taste. Mildly sweet prepared with date flavoured milk and saffron. It was introduced by Mughals. Its name is derived from Persian word “Sheer” which means milk and “Malidan” means rubbing. Thus it is bread rubbed with milk. It is also available in Lucknow and Hyderabad in a slightly different form.
Roath: The sweet bread with a cake like texture, topped with dry fruits and baked in a traditional tandoor. This bread is baked for special occasions like weddings, child births, engagements. It is decorated with almonds, cashews and poppy seeds. It is also distributed among friends and family. Traditionally brides’ parents pack this long-baked bread for the journey of their loving daughter to her in law’s place.
Porathe: A very large version of Puree but 8 to 10 times bigger. One porathe can weigh up to 1 kg. These are sold across Kashmir outside Sufi shrines. It is usually had with sweet Halwa.
Breads made by Kandur are available in all the mohallas usually at a walking distance from the residence of consumers. These outlets open and serve the people in all times. Tchot and other products are needed during all family gatherings to express happiness (Mubarak) or mourning’s (Taziyat). Tchot and Chay is a part of Kashmiri life. The modern bakery shops though doing good business especially during festive seasons like Eid have not replaced the traditional Kandaerwan.
The Pundit Kandurs who have everything in common with their Muslim counterparts including the products are now seen in Jammu and small numbers in Delhi and NCR in Kashmiri colonies. One of them is well known as Matamaal in Gurugram which also sells Kashmiri cuisine.
The famous Batta Kandur outlet of Ali Kadal with a 200 years history in the down town area originally belonging to a Kashmiri Pundit before 1990’s still has the same name. However, it is now manned by a Muslim Kandur family. The aroma of the baked bread from this dark and poorly ventilated shop attracts not only the locals but also the visitors. It has withstood the changing times of the modern era. It is the most popular Kandaerwan of the area. This small shop represents the heritage of Kashmir which has with stood the vagaries of the time.
Prof Upendra Kaul, Founder Director
Gauri Kaul Foundation