In Neelsar, Lachipora areas of frontier north Kashmir’s Uri—Markhor, a globally threatened screw horn goat species is finding saviours in Himalayan region of Jammu and Kashmir.
“Their (Markhor) population is certainly increasing in Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary and other areas where this animal is found,” Markhor spotter and wildlife guard, Latief Ahmad Mugal, narrated while taking us to his Mugal Pati residence.
“There are many factors for their stable number as there has been constant rising awareness with regard to wildlife rights and also strict wildlife laws. This beautiful, skilled animal could grow in numbers and it is really a positive development.”
He says that the Markhor frequently traverses through steep and rocky ground above the forests in summer, but descends in the winter.
“It’s enchanting to spot this beautiful animal grazing in open areas and watch their behaviour,” Mugal says. “Markhor is a really adventurous and energetic animal. This animal is a skilled mountaineer.”
In Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary in north Kashmir’s frontier Uri area, Markhor – males and females could be spotted together on the open grassy patches and clear slopes among the forest.
“During the summer the females generally betake themselves to the highest rocky ridges above the forest, while the males conceal themselves still more constantly in the jungle, very rarely showing themselves. They are always very wary, and require great care in stalking them,” Mugal says.
‘Markhor – the snake eaters’
The colloquial of Markhor is thought by some to be derived from the Persian word mar, meaning snake, and khor, meaning “eater”, which is sometimes interpreted to either represent the species’ ability to kill snakes, or as a reference to its corkscrewing horns, which are somewhat reminiscent of coiling snakes. This is found in the mountainous districts of Afghanistan, and the highest parts of the Tibetan Himalayas. On the Pir Panjal, in Kashmir, the Hazarah hills, the hills north of the Jhelum, the Wurdwan hills west of the Beas river, on the Suleiman range, and in Ladakh.
According to officials and researchers, the vital habitat for the Kashmiri markhor is Kazinag Wildlife Sanctuary, spread over an area of 160 sq km. Located about 80 km from Srinagar and close to the LOC in north Kashmir’s district Baramulla, Kazinag has a craggy landscape characterised by rocky outcrops, steep slopes, and flora that include pine, deodar, fir, birch, and juniper trees.
Regional Wildlife Warden, Kashmir, Rashid Naqash, told Greater Kashmir, that the general colour of Markhor is a dirty light-blue grey, with a darker beard; in summer.
The females are redder, with shorter hair, short black beard, but no mane, and with small horns slightly twisted. He said that in summer, the north Kashmir’s region, has temperate and alpine grasslands that provide sufficient food for the markhor, but winter is hard for these ungulates.
“The horns of an old male are magnificent,” he says. However, he says that the horns of certain varieties differ as Pir Panjal Markhor has heavy, flat horns, twisted like a corkscrew, while Trans-Indus Markhor has perfectly straight horns, with a spiral flange or ridge running up them. Similarly Hazarah Markhor is a slight corkscrew, as well as a twist. And then there are Astor and Baltistan Markhor with large, flat horns, branching out widely.
Markhor, zoologically known as capra falconeri, is a globally threatened species with very few remaining populations. Its population may number over 500 in Kashmir. The species was classed by the IUCN as Endangered until 2015 when it was downgraded to Near Threatened, as their numbers have increased in recent years by an estimated 20 per cent for the last decade.
‘STABLE POPULATION’
According to data with Nature Conservation Foundation, the largest of these is in the Kaj-i-Nag range that is in the western part of Kashmir, on the northern bank of the Jhelum and adjacent to the border between India and Pakistan (along the Line of Control or the LoC). The species, in spite of its conservation significance, hasn’t yet received its due in terms of research and conservation inputs.
Wildlife officials quoting a recent survey said that there has been a sharp increase in the number of Markhor in Limber catchment too.
“Adult males formed a low proportion of the population but increased slightly to 20 per cent during the rutting period. The Limber catchment thus appeared to be especially important for females,” a departmental survey report carried with an independent organization said.
“Males got more difficult to locate during summer but making extra effort at tracing them showed that some of them moved into the adjacent catchments of Lachipora and Naganari that were more disturbed with human activities,” it said.
Locals believe that the markhor has the ability to kill a snake. Thereafter, while chewing the cud, a foam-like substance comes out of its mouth which drops on the ground and dries. This foam-like substance is sought after by the local people, who believe it is useful in extracting the poison from snakebites.
The Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary is present in the catchment area of the protected area. The area is surrounded by Maidan Forests towards its southern side, the ceasefire line on its western end, Kakau Forest in Langet Forest Division on its northern portion and Limber and Bagna Forests on its eastern side. The landscape of this wildlife reserve varies greatly ranging from gentle to steep slopes which are interrupted by large, rocky cliffs. This sanctuary had been developed in order to safeguard Markhor, which is a species of wild goat found in parts of Kashmir, Pakistan and other countries.
There exist various kinds of forests and trees inside the grounds of Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary which consists of Coniferous Forests, Broadleaf Forests and meadows of Alpine pastures. Birch, Horse Chestnut, Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary, Jammu and Kashmir West Himalayan Fir and Persian Walnut are amongst the trees which are a part of the Broadleaf Forests of this region.
Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary is also home to several species of birds especially the Western Tragopan which has been categorised as’ vulnerable specie’ by the International Union for Conservation of Nature or IUCN.
‘Potential Threats’
Though the Markhor is included in the Indian (Schedule 1) and Kashmir Wildlife Protection Acts, the threat against its survival remains very much in place. Cross-border firing, competition with livestock for grazing ground, poaching for its antlers as trophy and for its meat, fragmentation of habitat due to LoC fencing, lack of awareness and developmental projects, all threaten the markhor.
“Declaring a protected area is just the starting point and not the end of the crusade of conservation. A sanctuary or a national park does give you the necessary legal teeth to fight the odds, but implementation of the laws and execution of strategies on ground is what matters most,” Wildlife expert Intesar Suhail says. Perhaps the greatest threat facing the species is competition from herders. In late May-early June, migratory (Bakkarwals) and local herders arrive with their livestock in the protected areas meant for the Markhor. They occupy the grazing grounds and force the Makhor to graze in other, mostly sub-optimal areas.
“The best way to address the issue is to have a rehabilitation plan for the herders which should include providing alternative grazing areas and if possible, alternative means of livelihood,” he said. Markhor are potential prey for snow leopards, brown bears, lynx, jackals, and golden eagles. While not directly causing their endangerment, the already small population of markhor is further threatened by their predation.
The other threats being faced by markhor across the State were identified as – continued poaching for trophy and meat, increasing fragmentation of the population due to the new fencing that has come up at the Line of Control (LoC) with Pakistan. The markhor is a valued trophy hunting prize for its incredibly rare spiral horns which became a threat to their species.
In British India, markhor was considered to be among the most challenging game species, due to the danger involved in stalking and pursuing them in high, mountainous terrain. According to Arthur Brinckman, in his The Rifle in Cashmere, “a man who is a good walker will never wish for any finer sport than ibex or markhor shooting”.
‘In Lachipora Man-Animal Live Together In Peace’
Human habitations in many villages in Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary are living what they term as “peacefully” with wildlife of the area, courtesy the rising awareness.
“The areas which are under the administrative control of the wildlife department in this region are having zero per cent of man-animal conflict,” claimed Ghulam Nabi Baba, Block Officer, and Department of Wildlife. “Man-animal live together in peace and people are getting even more conscious about their survival and wellbeing,” he said.
Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary, Jammu and Kashmir has been named after ‘Lachipora’ village which is present in the catchment location of the protected area at a distance of nearly 90 kms away from the Srinagar and spreading over the northern banks of river Jhelum. The area is surrounded by maidan forests, Kakau Forest in Langet Forest Division on its northern portion and Limber and Bagna Forests in its eastern side.
The landscape of this wildlife reserve varies greatly ranging from gentle to steep slopes which are interrupted by large, rocky cliffs. This sanctuary had been developed in order to safeguard Markhor – a globally threatened screw horn goat found in parts of Kashmir, Pakistan and central other Asian countries.
Lachipora Wildlife Sanctuary consists of some of the major villages, including Reshawardi, Neelusa, Bijhama, Lachipora A, Lachipora B, Mayan, Mugal Pati where wildlife and the human habitations are seen living side by side.
“There was a massive abundance of wildlife animals in these areas and people have learned how to live amicably and for many years, we haven’t witnessed any man-animal conflict here,” Baba said. “Our local staff, who are working on the meager salary of Rs 1200 a month have played a vital part in creating awareness in the areas and taking actions against the culprits.”
‘Photographers Perspective’
Dhritiman Mukherjee, one of India’s most prolific wildlife and conservation photographers, has a huge body of work on Kashmir’s wildlife scenario. He says that Markhors are skilled mountaineers who are capable of scaling the steepest of cliffs with ease and fun. He informs that they have a stocky build, strong hooves, and powerful legs are primed for this habitat, and they make the most of it. “Markhoor is an amazingly talented animal. It is equally incredible to see a 100-kilo animal jump along cliffs like this. This animal is well camouflaged and like an extension of the mountains.”
Wildlife photographer and avid trekker, Muhammad Yaqoob Baba who has been covering Jammu and Kashmir’s biodiversity said that he was happy to see the role of humans in protecting the wildlife in Lachipora Wildlife sanctuary in north Kashmir’s Uri area.
“More than the wildlife department, we must appreciate locals who have come out in showing love and respect for wildlife and their habitats,” he says.
He says that he has been visiting many wildlife sanctuaries for the last many years. “Many times, I get depressed after seeing the condition of the wildlife reserves and other forest areas. But in Lachipora, there is certainly a possibility of hope which is so refreshing,” he says.
Pertinently, according to IUCN, markhors are found in Afghanistan, India, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan, between the altitudes of 600 and 3,600 m. The researchers believe that there are five subspecies, of which the Capra falconeri cashmiriensis is found in India. “In India, the markhor is found only in Jammu and Kashmir, between 1,800 to 4,300 metres,” says Riyaz Ahmad, who headed the Markhor Project for the Wildlife Trust of India (WTI). “There are about 300 markhor left, with the majority population in Kazinag.”